Mar 042013
 

It all began when an art buyer asked if I could do a 20 foot x 8 foot shot on commission.  And that got me thinking.  I don’t want to go into specifics of place or scene yet – but it was outdoors and lets just say more flora than fauna.  As I stumbled through conceptualizing how many shots / what lens would be best / how to try and make sure that the stitching process wouldn’t be too arduous… I came up with the calculation that you’d need a 100mm lens (more or less) on a full-frame dslr, and in portrait mode you’d be somewhere in the vicinity of 25 horizontal pictures per row.

How many rows were needed – maybe 6.

These calculations were done simply enough by figuring out the printing dpi – and since the mural would be approachable I decided to shoot for 300 dpi if possible (that’s pretty high for this sort of work).  Boring to go into the details but the point is that I began looking around for more robotic ways of taking the pictures… and came across this GigaPano head (motorized head for moving and taking pictures) but there were a bunch of things about it in the reviews that almost all pointed out some manufacturing defect.

And the more I looked into it, the more I saw there was an entire sub-industry devoted to producing pano equipment (you have to call it Pano after four days of calling it Panoramic) and pano software.

And there was a wonderful (is) a Google Group dedicated to this sort of pano work.  I got some great friendly advise there.

And so last night I ordered my first piece of pano software – PTGui Pro.

If you’ve followed me for a while – you’ll remember this is how I fell into infrared shooting for a few years.  And I can tell you that the pano aspect ratio is not what interests me so much as how you can Project 3D onto a 2D surface in so many different ways.  Also the idea of having incredible detail in large images is something that I toyed with years ago with my own handheld montage stitching technique.

So the motors are starting to rev up again; and the Adobe Cloud has been installed and works fine; and we’ll see where this all leads.  Whether I get the commission for the mural has become secondary.  I’ll be doing it anyway.

Feb 222013
 

In this world where your business, dreams, and just about everything are exposed to a world of strangers – one of the most common transactions occurs when you are given advice.

The advice may be unsolicited.  It may be eagerly solicited.  If you ask whether it is best to do A, B or C you are apt to have a three-way split.  Maybe not exactly, in thirds, but it is common enough.

Or you may find that everyone tells you that A is the way to go.

Some advice will be well-reasoned.  Some will just be off-the-cuff.  Some advice will be based on that particular reader’s experience.  Some will be based on the reader’s dreams of how things work.

The question that you need to ask yourself is: how to decide which advice to take?

One other caveat, the advice I’m talking about (obviously) is related to the creative fields.

There is no science to it – but there are a few rules that can help you, especially when dealing with unknown sources:

1) If you are trying to figure out the best way to sell photographs on the web (for example) – if you can find someone that has done this successfully – that is advice to give seriously consideration.  It doesn’t mean that they are giving you the right advice for your situation – but it’s a start.

2) If the person gives advice, and knows nothing about your business – take it with a huge grain of salt – but don’t discount it either.  There are business rules that cut across all retail businesses, such as the 20 / 80 rule (80 percent of your sales will come from 20 percent of your products).  More or less.

3) Don’t be afraid to ignore everyone’s advice because you think you have more experience, you know better, and after all life is a series of experiments.  It’s unlikely that following your own advice will put you out of business – but if those are the stakes – then you’d better be real careful following your own advice when the world tells you that you’re wrong.

But you may just be a little bit ahead of your time.

I was told by people who were so-called experts at selling art, (this was in 1998) that no one would buy photography from an individual photographer through a web site.  That it was important to leverage the knowledge of a large organization of photographers (in these days you’d fill in the blank with PhotoShelter) for example as opposed to an individual site.

The truth is that Photo Shelter (I just use them as an example) will work well for certain types of personalities, and certain types of photographic businesses.  But not for all types.

4. Don’t be afraid to admit you are wrong but give your idea enough time to test properly.

5a. This is the esp. tricky part.  If you get advice through the web, try to get as much information and background on the advisor as possible.  If you find someone who is in the same niche as you – and you are able to ask them about their finances – put crudely – how much did you make in a year with this business.  That is a million dollar question and answer.  And be prepared to share your own financial situation.

5b.  In most cases – you’ll find that your would-be advisor is uneasy sharing that sort of financial information.  So do the next best thing.  Find out how many people visit their site.  See what sort of rank they have in search engines.  Pretend to be a customer and go through the purchase process.  It may be worth your time to actually order a print.  You want to see the quality, and the presentation.

6. If you can begin a “closed” group where others that share your ambitions are willing to share their advice – do it.

7. In short – advice is only as good as the business of the advisor and how closely related it is to yours.

And now I’ll give you one (of many) recent examples.

After a death in the family, I let my site go fallow for a while.  I stopped doing the usual things to keep it going.   I didn’t exactly drop out of search engines in two months – but I stopped pushing the business.  I stopped trying new things.  I let my social networking go cold.  And sales dropped to near zero.

As I wrote about this experience – I received a lot of advice – and I raised many issues that I thought might explain the situation.  My site had always been known as a black and white photography site as well as a New York Photography site.  About a year ago I became interested (artistically) in color photography – especially in heavily post-processed (I called it Paintography) prints.  I did this because I found it enjoyable and challenging.  It was certainly not a business decision.

But over the months I found that it might be diluting my niche.  I wasn’t sure.  I had separate galleries for my color work.  And there was  advice – both from close friends (photographers) and blog readers who didn’t like the color work and others who thought that the color galleries should be removed.

I had similar thoughts about mixing color with b&w.

I removed the color galleries for exactly one day.  That night, an art buyer that I hadn’t heard from for a year asked what had happened to the color work.  They had saved a few color shots and were interested in buying a few dozen copies of each.

Yikes.

I quickly put the color work back, but this time I put them all into one gallery.

Within a week, there were four art buyers knocking on the door.  They all bought either prints or high resolution files, and wanted to see more color.

That interest has continued, and at the same time regular customers continued to be interested in black and white prints.

So that’s what made me sit down and write out this post about advice.

I took the few minutes to write this up – while in the middle of exploring my color work.  That will build up.

One other idea that passed through the blog portal was to have two separate sites.  One for color.  One for b&w.  So now there’s the bit of advise.  How to know if that’s a good idea or not.

My gut feeling – not a good idea.  Will dilute my web presence.  But if someone came along and showed me an example where they had put this into practice and told me something about their sales – that might be the type of advice that could convince me it was worth a try.

 

 

Feb 172013
 

Okay, I’m still experimenting with “pushing” posts from this blog to various social publishers so I don’t have to do it more than once.  So now I’m posting this here as a test – the Ghosts of Fifth Avenue – and it should go to my Facebook Page automatically.

Then I want to see where the comments show up, if at all through Disquis.

The shot as you probably know and are sick of already, was shot with the high angle rig I made a few years ago.  The idea is something of a copy of a shot that I had on my wall for years by – what’s his name — just went blank.  Oh – Feininger (sp?).  His was done with a giant sized camera called Big Bertha (yes really).  And he had to build a platform for the large view camera.

My idea was to try something similar with a digital camera and a long lens with IS.  Which sort of worked, Lots of calculations to see where he shot from (the highest point on Fifth) as well as what was the equivalent telephoto length…  Not sure if I got that right.

I’m going through about 30 of these shots – to see if I even got close.  But the first thing I did was combine a bunch of them with HDR telling it not to worry about lining things up – just the straight lines etc.

Okay – that’s a lot to write for what is essentially a test post.

 

Jan 142013
 

I’ve been building  and tweaking my own photography web site since 1999.  At first it was all done with straight html, and maybe with ASP and then PHP etc. etc.  Eventually I moved to WordPress and that’s what I’ve been using since – well – I don’t know – it’s been a long time.

I know WordPress well.

So I took the Suffusion Theme – and began to adapt it to a photo store which takes money via Paypal.

What I like is that my customers don’t need to pay anyone (other than the ISP – Site Provider) on an ongoing process.  Right now I’m doing the setup with a shared LINUX box at www.InMotion.com.  He’s paying roughly $6 a month for the hosting service.

I began working on the site for Matt Weber this Friday – three days ago – and this is what I’ve done so far:

www.MattWeberPhotos.com

Will talk more about this and other projects later….

I’m beginning to think that this may be a productive way to bring in some extra money during the next few years

 

Dec 182012
 

First “draft” of Dad in Hot Tub (CLICK FOR LARGER SIZE)

AND SO – after a few days of masking and editing in Photoshop – I begin to look at the image from a further psychic distance. And the questions run through the brain: Is it too dark; too dark; what’s the main focus? What can be done to bring attention to the main character?

This part goes along quickly as I’m in NIK and have a pretty set way of working. I’ll drop into Color Efex and experiment with various filters / looks / graduated filters / etc.

At some point an idea drifts along, that the background should be brought down and his face should be lit from the lights beneath the water. This part is more “feeling” based. I also know that normally I don’t post this first “draft.” I will need to let it sit on it’s own and come back to it in a few days, or a few weeks. Or maybe never.

I know that from a commercial point of view it is unsellable. But I knew that when I began working on it. It breaks the rules of what will sell (at least for me) on the web, and the main reason is that “dad” isn’t famous, and the only images of people that may sell is if they are beautiful, or famous, or doing something astounding, or photographed in a more abstract way, or perhaps a silhouette of two people kissing, or about to kiss.

The same image of a large dog sitting on the edge of the hot tub would sell better.

But I went into the this with the idea that it would be my homage to dad. At some point, I’ll do a collage, or a small teaching e-book since it does go through the workflow that I’ll use for most images.

I’ll also be able to use it as a “here ya go” when the questions about how it was done, or whether it was edited come in. Many of the same techniques are used for black and white photographs.

In that sense – when people label me as a street photographer – I bristle a bit because most of my shots get more attention during post-processing and even from the very beginning, when I would bring a view camera into the subway – I was interested in combining street photography with processing and shooting techniques.

So I’ll leave it to ferment – and hopefully when I look back on it there will still be some interest – or else I’ll think that it was overworked; or that it was actually better as the black and white. We’ll see.

Dec 182012
 

Paintography – with sets of layers (large and small areas) CLICK FOR FULL SIZE IMAGE

 

The Painting Process Continues
Now I’ve divided the layers into two sets: big areas, and little areas.
The one important thing you can’t see here are what blending methods were chosen.

For SOLID FILL LAYERS (as opposed to PHOTO FILTER LAYERS) SOFT LIGHT gives the most natural results; or at least the most “pop.”  Once all, or most of the areas have had colors / saturation etc. assigned to them, this file will be the MASTER FILE.

It will continue to be the NON-DESTRUCTIVE file.  Non-destructive simply means that the colors can be swapped at will without losing data about the image, other than that the color has been swapped, or the saturation or blending has been changed.  It’s one of the most important ideas in Paintography or any sort of Photoshop Editing.

If you were, for example, to use one layer to make all your changes on, you wouldn’t be able to take advantage of blending layers; and every time you made changes, you’d be losing what you had before. (That’s a subject for it’s own chapter somewhere).

This is where I’ve gotten to so far.

When the image is finished, one of the first questions that will be asked is: has this been edited?  Many of the same techniques used here are applicable to black and white paintography as well.
Dec. 18th, 2012

Dec 172012
 

After dad died suddenly a few weeks ago, I was asked to go through photographs of him for the sitting room in the funeral home.  I came across this shot taken on his birthday a few years back that I had once completely colored.  It wasn’t fit for the sitting room – but I wanted to take another shot at colorizing (paintography) it.  I couldn’t find the colorized version, and it had bugged me for the last few years.

One thing you’ll notice is that dad was absolutely open to being photographed, or at least had gotten used to it.

Well, anyway, I thought that I’d try to go through the paintography technique in “real time.”

There are a few basic techniques that I use, and two programs – the ubiquitous Photoshop – and the NIK suite of software.

First off, this begins as a scan of a 35mm black and white negative shot with my very quiet Hexar classic.

And it is completely “non-destructive.”  In this example that means that I masked the suds on top of the hot tub, and created a new Photo Filter layer.  The advantage of this is that each section of the image can be tweaked as needed without losing any of the original information.  The suds can be brighter, darker, more or less saturated – or just about anything that feels right at the time.  I have ideas about what the larger portions of the image will be like… but they are open to change.

Here are two examples of how the Photo Filter layer can be used.  One greenish, another pinkish.  On top of that you can decide how you want to BLEND the layer (screen, multiple, soft-light etc.)  Once I get into the process – I may get so into it that I’ll give up on trying to document it as I go along – but we’ll see how it goes.

Using Photo Filter layer (pink)

TEXTURE LAYER

This is rough, and worthy of a post of its’ own – but besides Photo Filter (which is a slight tinting mechanism) to Color Fill (very heavy color fill) there is also TEXTURE FILL.  I just put in some texture for the suds, that can have a range of feeling like a primitive art effect to a subtle realistic effect.  I know that I’ll be using various types of textures for the TILE AND GROUT area, and for the suds area.

 

Texture added (very roughly) to the suds in the tub.

Mixing FILL COLOR and FILL TEXTURE on the suds.

 

 

Sep 152012
 

Probably more interesting for the technique than the image itself.  But I’ve been playing with stitching together HDR images for a while because of the incredible detail you can get.

So this image was created by shooting through a hole in the fence where the 2nd Avenue Subway is being built.

It is composed of four HDR horizontal images, stitched together vertically.  Each HDR image is composed of 3 shots.  So the final shot is composed of 12 individual images.

I’ve found the best way to do this sort of thing is to first test the panorama by using the middle shot of the 3 bracketed sequences to make sure the panorama is going to work.  If that is okay – then you go back and do the HDR shots, and save the HDR parameters so that everything is processed the same.

Then open up the four HDR files in Photoshop and use Photomerge.

You’ll need to do some trimming.

Then into NIK Color Effex (in this case) with Pro Contrast filter to fine tune the image and remove casts etc.

Then into NIK Viveza to bring out details in the image, or whatever needs to be done.

You can go on forever with this process.  This image isn’t actually worth doing much work with but if the image were worthy I’d probably go back into Photoshop and/or Viveza and keep doing the retouching until each part popped or did what it needed to do.

Final size of the image is roughly 4800 px x 7800 px.  Camera Canon EOS T4i.

I shot a lot more this morning and hopefully there will be something worth this sort of effort.  You could easily take this and put it into an extrapolation program like ProZoom (which is what I use) and double or triple the size without introducing artifacts.  I know because I’ve done it several times.

So here’s the actual image with a detail image of a crushed pack of Parliament.

Other tips: Make sure you use the same f-stop (and let the bracketing be done by shutter speed).  That’s the rule unless you want to experiment with combining different focal planes.

click for larger pop up image

 

Click for larger pop up image