Apr 122011
 

In a nutshell, it’s the zoom lens.  It’s the zoom lens especially when it is sold to the beginner.  And did I say, it’s the zoom lens, even in my own sweaty hands.

I am not stuck in my ways (though I’m sure I’ve written about this before I just don’t remember where) but when they sell you “the kit” with the zoom lens that will do everything, and on top of that a camera that will do everything – then you see nothing.  You learn nothing.

They should force you to take a zoom lens test before you get to have one.  The test would ask multiple choice questions such as: What is a fast lens?

a) A lens that is used on too many different camera bodies

b) A lens that is good for shooting quick moving objects

c) A lens with a very high numbered F-Stop

c) A lens with a low number F-Stop

or
Continue reading »

Apr 102011
 

An overview of how I prepare a RAW file with NIK Photo Processing Software.

The basic concept is to try and preserve as much data as possible before going to the next steps which may involve HDR, or ColorEfex Pro or SilverEfex Pro. That will be in the second video. (There’s also a quick look at NIK DFine and the PreSharpener). Important to know is that there are two NIK Collections. You can buy individual components but I think that’s throwing away money. You’ll want to do your entire workflow with one set of software.

Continue reading »

Apr 102011
 

I don’t know when it first happened, but somewhere along the line the harmless tripod became the despised, detested and disgusting to authorities.  It became worse after Sept. 11th.  The tripod was practically held responsible.  It was never legal to take a tripod on the NYC subways, but you could always get a permit.  And even if you didn’t have a permit, the police were lenient with you.

In 1993 I was able to take a large format camera, with a tripod into a subway car and take pictures without being bothered by the police.  Nowadays that would be unthinkable.
Continue reading »

Apr 082011
 

[I always liked this post because it is silly, and reminds me of the silly walks episode in Monty Python. At the same time, it is absolutely true, and useful, and something to practice until it becomes second nature. With best wishes - your editor.]

You are almost invisible.  You are wearing your best tourist clothes.  Your camera is in your hand or around your neck.  You have spotted a subject standing in a doorway a half-block away.  You imagine how far from the subject you’ll be when you take the shot; if you take the shot.  You pre-focus, either by aiming the camera at a similar distance, or with hyperfocal distance, or whatever method you want for the situation.

There are people walking behind you and people walking towards you.  As you approach your subject you evaluate whether you can quickly snap this shot or not.  Your shutter speed is set to 1/150th of a second (which is the best you can manage in this light) or 1/1000th if you are lucky.  And just as you hit your mark the camera goes to your eye and you stop, in mid-step and snap the image and without removing the camera from your eye, continue with your walking.

You have got your shot, and you were stock still when you took it.  Only problem, as you stopped momentarily for no reason that was apparent to the guy behind you, he bumps into you – not expecting you to stop.  This is the stutter-step.  All street photographers use it; and having someone bump into them from behind is common.  You mumble, sorry, and continue on your way.

Again, the idea is that you want to pause for just that brief moment while you squeeze the shutter and continue on as if nothing happened.

In this case, I've stopped for the split second, the subject hasn't.

Apr 062011
 
public-library-6531-window

A Quick Recipe for HDR

(One note, the image you’re looking at is a bit squeezed by the
the blog layout.  So you can get a better idea, though still not anything close to showing the detail
that’s in the shot, by click on the image.)

The idea behind HDR is that by combining three or more digital images that have different exposures you can achieve a wider dynamic range than you can with a single file. Though it is also to do what I’d call a “faux HDR” with one file, but I won’t go into this here.

In its simplest form, you set your camera to “bracket” the exposure. You generally want to be in aperture mode (AV) so that the depth of field stays the same and only the length of the exposure changes.

Here’s an example with my trusty Canon DSLR T1i.
Continue reading »

Mar 242011
 

I have been using Epson Exhibition F Gloss paper and/or Crane Museo Silver Rag for a long time now.  I was an actual beta tester with the Crane/Museo Silver Rag.  For a while I didn’t feel like dealing with the curve of the rolled paper plus photos are mostly printed by FM, so the Silver Rag is on a roll in the Epson 7800 and it has been about six months since I used it.

The part of the roll that is exposed, i.e. not covered by the plastic cover, has turned a dull shade of yellow.  This is a paper that doesn’t contain brighteners, and is cotton rag.  At the same time, I have a print with this Silver Rag that is framed, under glass, and much closer to the one window in the house that gets some sunlight.

Out of curiosity, I removed the backing this morning and looked at the unprinted borders, and didn’t see any change in the paper.

I have been wondering about the yellowing of paper, and just for fun, a few days ago I took a piece of the Epson Exhibition F Gloss paper and covered half of it with the top of a print box and left the other half open to air and ambient light on my working table which is lit by a 100 watt daylight temp. bulb (energy saver) and some indirect sunlight.

Believe it or not, within two days, you could see a difference between the covered and uncovered areas on the sheet of “Exhibition paper.”  I know that the Epson paper has optical brightners but I was shocked to find the Silver Rag had also yellowed so much.
Continue reading »

Mar 152011
 

Preface: I had the idea for a while to take out the modified infrared camera and to do HDR with it.  Real HDR.  Bracketed infrared shots.  I was supposed to meet S. at the Metropolitan tomorrow but got mixed up and arrived today at one instead.  And waited in front for a while until I realized that I was off by a day.

Just as well.  I had bought the GorillaPod (small bending tripod) a few weeks back especially for this.  I wanted a tripod that I could fit in a small bag, and use where tripods weren’t allowed.  Not to mention I don’t want to carry a tripod with me (under my arm or over my shoulder) all the time as it cramps my style and often prevents more spontaneous shots.

And so, after doing some HDR / Infrared in the Museum, and not having any issues with guards, I headed out to the park.  This shot was done by attaching (sort of) the GorillaPod to the top of the fence that surrounds the reservoir, holding it steady against a post – and clicking off three bracketed infrared shots.

What I’m posting is really just a first crack at it.  I did quite a bit, with color images in mind.  Nevertheless, worth posting as the technique is fairly rare, I think, and the result is pleasing enough for a first attempt.